The Inkey List SuperSolutions 20% Niacinamide Serum
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Formulation Summary
The highest concentration niacinamide serum in The Inkey List range. At 20%, this is the maximum stable inclusion of niacinamide and matches prestige products like Paula's Choice Clinical at a fraction of the price. Developed with dermatologists. Contains 0.5% zinc PCA for oil control and 3% squalane to protect the barrier while fighting excess oil.
This formula represents the upper limit of niacinamide concentration. The 20% niacinamide provides oil control, pore minimization, and exfoliating effects beyond what lower concentrations deliver. Zinc PCA at 0.5% adds additional sebum regulation without the dryness of higher zinc levels. Squalane at 3% is a thoughtful addition; it prevents the potential dryness that can accompany maximum-strength niacinamide while remaining lightweight. The gel texture absorbs quickly and layers well. Only 15 ingredients total.
Quick Facts
Designed For
- •Very oily skin seeking maximum oil control
- •Stubborn enlarged pores unresponsive to lower niacinamide concentrations
- •Users who have tolerated 10-15% niacinamide and want to increase strength
- •Budget-conscious users wanting clinical-strength actives
- •Those seeking exfoliating effects (20% niacinamide has mild exfoliating properties)
May Not Suit
- •Sensitive skin; start with 10% and work up before trying 20%
- •First-time niacinamide users; patch test required
- •Dry skin types without adequate hydration in routine
- •Users who experience flushing from niacinamide (rare but possible at high concentrations)
Key Ingredients
| Ingredient | Concentration | Function |
|---|---|---|
| Niacinamide | 20%brand-confirmed | Maximum concentration for oil control, pore minimization, and skin texture improvement. At 20%, niacinamide also provides mild exfoliating effects that help smooth surface roughness. This is the highest percentage the brand uses. |
| Zinc PCA | 0.5%brand-confirmed | Oil-control compound that targets sebum buildup and bumps/texture. Lower concentration than some formulas (COSRX uses 1%) but still effective, especially paired with 20% niacinamide. |
| Squalane | 3%brand-confirmed | Lightweight plant-derived oil that protects the skin barrier. Prevents the dryness that can occur with high-strength niacinamide while remaining non-comedogenic. |
The Formulation Explained
Maximum 20% niacinamide
At 20%, this is the highest stable concentration of niacinamide. The combination with 0.5% zinc PCA targets oil production effectively. Niacinamide has immediate and long-term effects on sebum regulation. Individual results vary based on baseline oil production and environment.
3% squalane for barrier support
Squalane prevents the dryness that can accompany maximum-strength niacinamide. It remains lightweight and non-comedogenic. The gel texture absorbs quickly and layers well.
Clinical testing
Independent clinical study of 20 people showed oil control for up to 8 hours. A 4-week consumer trial of 50 people reported texture improvement. The 20% niacinamide provides mild exfoliation that smooths surface roughness. Consumer studies measure perception, not clinical endpoints.
Application note
Some users report a white film if they apply too much. Use less product and follow immediately with moisturizer to avoid this.
Ingredients to Know
Preservative with some concerns about sensitivity in certain individuals. Used at low concentrations for product stability.
Common preservative considered safe at cosmetic concentrations. Generally well-tolerated.
Texture-forming polymer that creates the gel consistency. Helps the product spread smoothly and absorb quickly.
User Feedback Patterns
Full INCI List
15 ingredients · Click "Show full list" to view
About The Inkey List
All products are named by key ingredient. The brand publishes percentage concentrations for active ingredients. Extensive educational content on website and packaging. Dermatologist involvement in SuperSolutions range development. 100% recyclable packaging.
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Sources
- • theinkeylist.com
- • sephora.com
- • incidecoder.com
- • skinsort.com
- • Space NK product page
- • Boots UK reviews
- • Home Tester Club reviews
- • Dr. Adeline Kikam (@brownskinderm) endorsement on brand site
Last updated: 2026-03
Rating Scales
Comedogenicity (0-5)
Likelihood of clogging pores. 0 = won't clog, 1-2 = low, 3 = moderate, 4-5 = high.
Irritancy (0-5)
Potential for skin irritation. 0 = non-irritating, 1-2 = low, 3 = moderate, 4-5 = high.
Ratings based on published ingredient studies. Individual reactions may vary.