Paula's Choice

Paula's Choice Clinical Niacinamide 20% Treatment

Serum·Mid-Range·$55 / 20ml — $2.75/ml

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Paula's Choice Clinical Niacinamide 20% Treatment$55 / 20ml — $2.75/ml

Formulation Summary

A high-strength niacinamide treatment at 20% concentration (double the brand's original booster) designed to address stubborn, advanced pore concerns like stretched or sagging pores, orange-peel texture, and clogged bumps. Formulated as an intensive option for those who find 10% niacinamide isn't enough.

This formula was developed by Paula Begoun herself, after seeing strong results with the 10% booster and wanting something more intensive for stubborn concerns like sebaceous hyperplasia. The 20% niacinamide is paired with meadowsweet extract to help reduce excess oil and combat collagen-degrading enzymes. Purslane and camellia japonica are included antioxidants, and acetyl glucosamine works synergistically with niacinamide for hyperpigmentation. The gel texture is thicker than the 10% booster's watery formula.

Quick Facts

TextureLightweight gel (thicker than the 10% booster)
ColorClear with slight amber tone
Fragrance-free✓ Yes
Cruelty-freeLeaping Bunny
Vegan✓ Yes
ScentNo added fragrance

Designed For

  • Stubborn enlarged or sagging pores that haven't responded to 10% niacinamide
  • Orange-peel texture and rough, bumpy skin
  • Sebaceous hyperplasia
  • Advanced pore concerns related to aging or sun damage
  • Post-acne marks and uneven texture

May Not Suit

  • Sensitive skin that reacts to high-concentration niacinamide
  • Those new to niacinamide
  • Anyone who experienced irritation or flushing with lower-concentration niacinamide
  • Those seeking primarily hydration

Key Ingredients

IngredientConcentrationFunction
Niacinamide20%brand-confirmedMinimizes pore appearance, normalizes pore function, brightens skin tone, reduces sebum production, boosts collagen
Meadowsweet ExtractHelps reduce excess oil; combats collagen-degrading enzymes that lead to pore sagging
Acetyl GlucosamineWorks synergistically with niacinamide for hyperpigmentation and skin texture
Ascorbyl GlucosideStable vitamin C derivative for brightening and antioxidant protection
Purslane ExtractAntioxidant and skin-soothing; helps create a healthier complexion
Green Tea (EGCG + Leaf Extract)Antioxidant protection; helps defend against UV and environmental damage

The Formulation Explained

Double the niacinamide concentration

At 20% niacinamide, this is double the concentration of Paula's Choice's original booster. The brand developed it specifically for stubborn concerns that don't respond to the 10% formula. Things like stretched pores, orange-peel texture, and sebaceous hyperplasia. Paula Begoun created this formula for her own skin concerns.

Meadowsweet for pore sagging

The formula includes meadowsweet extract, which the brand says helps combat collagen-degrading enzymes that can contribute to pore sagging. This makes it particularly relevant for aging-related pore concerns, not just oily or congested skin.

Synergistic brightening ingredients

Like the 10% booster, this pairs niacinamide with acetyl glucosamine (synergistic for hyperpigmentation) and ascorbyl glucoside (stable vitamin C). Multiple antioxidants including green tea, purslane, and camellia japonica provide additional protection.

What's different from the 10% booster

Beyond the higher niacinamide concentration, the texture is different from previous formulas. This is a lightweight gel rather than a watery liquid. It contains meadowsweet extract (not in the 10% version) and has a more treatment-focused approach. The 10% is designed to mix with other products; this is more of a standalone treatment step.

Ingredients to Know

PhenoxyethanolIrritancy: 1/5

Common preservative. Generally well-tolerated; rare sensitivity in some individuals.

EthylhexylglycerinIrritancy: 1/5

Preservative booster and skin conditioning agent. Occasionally sensitizing for very reactive skin.

Pentylene GlycolIrritancy: 1/5

Solvent and texture enhancer. May contribute to the slightly oily feel some users report.

Silica

Absorbent that helps with the formula's finish. Generally non-irritating.

User Feedback Patterns

More effective than 10% for stubborn concerns:Users who found the 10% booster insufficient often report better results with this formula, particularly for aging-related pore concerns and textural issues.
Texture and feel:The gel texture feels slightly oily to some users before it dries down. Some report a tacky feel or that it takes time to absorb. Most find it works well under moisturizer.
Potential irritation at high concentration:Some users report sensitivity, flushing, or irritation — especially if used daily from the start. Several reviewers recommend using every other day initially or finding 10% sufficient.
Gradual, cumulative results:Like the 10% booster, results are typically seen over weeks of consistent use rather than immediately. Some users report noticeable improvement within 1-2 weeks; others need longer.

Full INCI List

25 ingredients · Click "Show full list" to view

About Paula's Choice

Founded1995
FounderPaula Begoun
LocationSeattle, Washington

Brand provides detailed ingredient breakdowns with function explanations on product pages. Publishes research citations for claims.

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Side-by-side ingredient comparisons against every other product in our catalog.

Sources

  • paulaschoice.com (brand website)
  • incidecoder.com (ingredient analysis)
  • Sephora reviews
  • Dermstore reviews
  • MakeupAlley reviews
  • Reddit r/SkincareAddiction
  • omgbart.com (niacinamide comparison)
  • alexaskin.com
  • bellyrubzbeauty.com

Last updated: 2026-03

Rating Scales

Comedogenicity (0-5)

Likelihood of clogging pores. 0 = won't clog, 1-2 = low, 3 = moderate, 4-5 = high.

Irritancy (0-5)

Potential for skin irritation. 0 = non-irritating, 1-2 = low, 3 = moderate, 4-5 = high.

Ratings based on published ingredient studies. Individual reactions may vary.